PTV clearance and piston notching
Moving forward with my barrage of questions, I have 2 more.
1: I have a hydraulic lifter with a flipped plunger to test PTV clearance with. Someone on another forum told me that it will be .030 on the high side as compared to a solid lifter. I just want to double check this, is that true? 2: I'm fairly certain even before I check PTV that I'm probably going to need to notch my pistons. When I do this, do I have to take the pistons back out afterward to clean everything? I'm just worried about shavings getting inbetween the pistons and the walls, is this a possibility? I've even thought about turning the engine upsidedown on the stand while notching to prevent this but maybe I'm worrying for nothing. |
You will need to notch your pistons with the cam you mentioned and twisted wedge heads
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Although the putty was a great idea when notching! I'll definitely be doing that. |
Spread some grease around the edge where piston and cylinder meet to keep aluminum shavings from falling down into the ring-lands. Then wipe/scrape up the grease and clean out the edges. As you do the job, go ahead and take pictures to give us a "play-by-play" of the progress.
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Flip the plunger in the lifter. That'll simulate a fully pumped up lifter accurately enough. Even if the flipped plunger shows a bit less P-V clearence than what is actually occurring in a running engine, I don't really see how a little more P-V clearance is a bad thing.
Assemble the valve train with a checking spring on the cylinder you are checking, I'd check every cylinder. Determine proper pushrod length and P-V clearance. Don't forget a head gasket. I prefer a dial indicator over clay. I could never measure the clay very accurately. But, I did check with clay just to see where the valve was closest to the piston. Trim piston as necessary. I attempted to remove the same amount of material from each piston as to not screw up the balance. |
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