new stuff for my stang
 

well finally got some stuff i have been needing/wanting. i got some trick flow twisted wedge aluminum heads which should be a nice upgrade from my e7's. fan controller so i dont have to flip a switch. overflow tank so that my stock plastic one isnt ziptied up. msd rotar cap and clamp. and i got some arp head bolts and bushing kit and some really nice rocker arms.


hopefully i will have everything together by the next week or so and have her fired up.

oh and how much hp at the wheels do yall think i will pick up i have a comp cam that is a little bit bigger than the b cam but it sounded more meaty than a car that had an e cam. i was making 250 hp and 300 tq.

Could pick up 30 at the tires, could pick up 60...depends on the cam. The heads are a big improvement. :nice:

pics!!!

make sure you rotate the engine by hand after the heads are installed to make sure there isn't a piston/valve clearance issue

yea I would definetly check the PVC, you might not have much or none all... depends on the lift and duratoin

well got the heads and lower intake on tonight. stopped by the dyno on the way back from my buddies house in leeds after picking up my pushrods. blake said to expect 50-60 from the heads and like 10-15 from underdrive pullys and ac delete. so from 250hp and 300tq to ~ at the most 325 at the wheels. i would love to have my car pick up that much. gonna get some race gas too so i can see how high i can put my timing up for track purposes only.

oh and when i checked the heads there was at least an 1/8 of an inch between the valves and heads, seeing as how it didnt even touch the 1/8th of an inch or so i put in there.

Tune the car on pump gas only and get the best numbers you can out of it.

then just go to the track and put a splash of race gas in it.

:think: What were you measuring again??

And keep it on regular 93-octane pump gas. No need for race gas unless you're above 10.5:1 or have a power-adder. Advancing the timing on a 9:1 motor does not warrant race-gas.

Good luck, keep us updated! :nice:

Yes, please clarify what the 1/8" measurement was.

I agree. I used to run up to 42-degrees total timing on my stock block with GT-40 irons -- never had problems with 93 pump gas.

Is it just me, or does 75 horsepower from a set of heads and under-drive pulleys sound kinda high?

Its a little on the high side.

However.

I had a stock car that made 220 rwhp and put heads,cam,intake and the rest fo the bolt ons on it and it made 312rwhp

Like I said above, depends on that cam. Description was a bit vague:
The old Wolverine 1087 cam, with Holley intake and Twisted wedges or equivalent could contribute to 320 at the tires. The Lunati 51017 is a badass too.

not to mention the 1/8 inch of clearance:D

:doh:

:rofl:

i had an 1/8 of an inch putty on top of the piston to check the piston to valve clearance. and as far as cam specs the guy i bought the car from said that the comp cam in my motor was a little bigger than the b letter cam. i dont expect to see more than around 290 at the wheels. and the reason i was going to get some race gas was to nock the timing up a bit. i was going to tune my car for 93 on the street then have one where i put like 3 gallons of 110 in it and see if it would help it from spark nocking to get a couple of more degrees of base timing.

So you turned the motor over by hand, with the pushrods, lifters, rockers all working and it was all-clear by that much?? Then you're fine.

oh yeah well now i know i have plenty of room for at least one more upgrade.....

I don't know about that. It all depends on how accurate his reading was and whether or not he used a solid lifter to take the measurement.

If it's only .125" on the exhaust side, that may be a little close. I would recommend throwing a solid lifter in there and some test springs on the heads and check it more accurately.

Yeah.

:agree: Always check with a solid lifter,if you're good to go on PVC that way,you'll definately be safe with the hydraulic ones.What are the length on your pushrods,are you using stockers,or custom length?

He'll need longer pushrods for those TW heads; somewhere around 6.700".

That's what I was thinking,and if he used the stockers to check the PTV................

i am using 6.550 length pushrods and stockers are 6.25. i aint to teribbly worried about the length i made sure the lifters were pumped up real good and used the new pushrods and rocker arms to check everything and didnt use a head gasket so that gasket will give it just a little more clearance.

You need to re check your pushrod length.

Ive put on many sets of twisted wedge heads and used 6.700's on every one of them

well my rocker arms are touching almost middle and a little closer to the intake side. i am using the heads and pushrods that came off my buddies (88scgt) dads 347 that made 663 hp at 4800 before it broke the block and everything looks good.

Have fun with it

+1.............

Ouch, I take it you have never run any TW heads before. I have owned several sets and can see clearly what your not so distant future holds.

663 @ 4800 on a set of twisties? Without a power adder I say :bs:

He said it had an S-Trim on it:rofl:

:bomb:

nah it had a novi 2000 with 77 or 78 tooth crank gear and the small blower pully it was making 18 psi

okay cool, I missed that part LOL

663 would be way pushing it on an S-Trim.

well got the car cranked today and drove it from hoover to leeds with no problems. cranked first time. had to mess with the timing a bit to get it to idle but other than that no prob. prob going to trade my friend for his upper and lower since i drive mine more often than track duty, and his is more for track use. but other than that with the head swap, feels about the same with 10* on the new set up with 18* on the old set up. gonna give it a few days till i start dialing it up.

Going from E7's to TW heads should feel like more than just an 8-degree timing bump -- there should be a major difference.

my tps wasnt reading wot it was only going to 3.8v and i got that fixed and whoa.. major difference.

Actually, that shouldn't have changed anything at WOT. As long as the TPS goes above, 2.71v, then the ECU sees it as WOT.

However, if it was off that bad at the bottom end, it probably was screwing up your idle.