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Old 01-30-2008, 11:31 AM   #31
89five0Gt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Italian LX View Post
You can order the AFR165 heads for use with pedestal rockers.

oh i didn't know that....my bad
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:08 PM   #32
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I have seen a TFS stage 1 installed with 1.7RR's on stock E7's and it cleared. It's close (.530/.542), but should work. Check it with clay. Clearance it if you want.

The Stage 1 is on a 112º LSA. Ground with a 108º Intake centerline if you install it dot-to-dot. That works well.

The E-cam is on a 110º and not sure about it's centerlines. Probably 110.
The overlap is still quite significant. That's why it runs so good N/A. The B and F usually are better for the bottle or power-adders.
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:08 PM   #33
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I ran a .544 lift cam on a stock shortblock and AFR 165's with no problems. I think duration at .050 was around 224-226
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:09 PM   #34
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Ok,I got the E,and the TFS backwards,oops!
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Old 01-30-2008, 02:14 PM   #35
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Here is my recommendation AFM N-41
Descr...N-41 c.i.d. This cam is to be used with 1.6 R.R. Best cam for GT-40.
Great with TFS or Edelbrock heads. Minimum 24lb injectors and 75mm
mass air. Recommend 3:73 to 4:30 gears. Good drivability down to
2000 rpm, lumpy idle, rpm range 2400-6200, works best with 89-93
ECC, needs 2600-2800 converter
.
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:05 PM   #36
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Thanks for the help guys. Alot to think about. But great info.
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:34 PM   #37
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DO NOT BUY 165'S if you are going to buy another set of heads buy some twisted wedges they allow more cam and will make more power,also you can find used sets reasonable and even ported.I think if you bought the 165's it would be a waste of money.I dont want to overload you with ifo and really confuse you as there is a lot of people allready chiming in on this subject.If you want to hold off till you do the 347? or you want to do something to the current till you make your mind up just cam the current engine and save the head money to throw better parts at the 347.If you are in a quandry and have any questions pm me I just dont like to see people throw money away and not be happy.

Matt you have it backwards on the letter cams b makes more n/a power possibly even with a power adder than the eek.E is emissions legal cam and is recomended for forced inductions but I just dont like it.B or Fand Xif you have the room but I try not to run letter cams in performance stuff unless its budget.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BADINT
Matt you have it backwards
I didn't say it made more power than B or F. Just pointed out how well the E-303 does on N/A mild applications. It's a very good stock replacement for mild-setups.

The B is a good power-maker, but really needs a higher-ratio rocker to get the most out of it's timing. The F has never impressed me and I've driven a few. It does well with a turbo, but then again, so does a stock cam.

My opinion on alphabet cams is this: If you can find one really cheap (often the case), then they're good to use. If you're spending some dough, they aren't as cheap as they used to be. Pay a little more and get something with more modern lobes and some friendlier cam-timing for the more modern heads and stroker combinations.

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Old 01-30-2008, 06:37 PM   #39
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if you are going to buy another set of heads buy some twisted wedges they allow more cam and will make more power,also you can find used sets reasonable and even ported
And remember to get pistons FOR twisted wedge heads!(if you did'nt already know!)
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:49 PM   #40
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And remember to get pistons FOR twisted wedge heads!(if you did'nt already know!)

you can run larger cam with out flycutting or changing pistons with the wedges with the angle their valves are on than normal inline heads
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