H/C/I Advice

[SkurdalenFox]

This spring I intend to do an H/C/I swap and freshen up the ol’ 5.0 a bit. I want to get everything together and have a definite plan before I yank the engine, so I’m starting early.

Here are the parts to be added.

GT-40 Heads – ported, upgraded springs and valves.*
Explorer Intake – ported lower*
Cam – I haven’t decided which yet.
Roller Rockers
Timing chain and gear set
New pushrods and lifters.
New normal volume oil pump & HD oil pump driveshaft*
Windage tray
Valve covers
New front seal
Pioneer harmonic damper*
Stewart Stage 1 water pump*
Transmission front seal
Plus all the various gaskets and bolts for the above parts.

Now for the questions,

So, what am I missing? What should I do and what should I not do? Please keep in mind that I want to stay out of the machine shop.

Should I do anything with the main bearings? One book I have mentions that I should replace the main beings with .001” oversize bearings outright. It seems like I should measure the clearance before I just slap in some new bearings. Further, I recently had an oil analysis done. HERE The motor is a little high on Aluminum and Iron, but Copper and Lead are below average. It seems like I shouldn’t need to put in new main bearings. Please advise.

Should I go with head bolts or studs? I’ve read tons of contradictory information on this. I have no plans super/turbo charge or for Nitrous Oxide.

*s mark the parts I already have. If you have any advice about the other items, I'm all ears.

Any advice will be warmly greeted and very much appreciated.

[coupe]

If you get the crank lightly re-polished and checked for straightness and runout...the .001 oversize bearings might be okay... But if everything looks good and measures out fine, sticking it all back together standard will work wonderfully. If it's down that far, don't re-use the bearings.
Measure twice, assemble once.

Use head-studs. It will put less stress on the threads in the block and holds clamp better than a bolt in general.

Cams: I'm a fan of the Trick FLow stage1 . The Crane "Powermax" line is nice too. IF you must get a Ford cam, put in the B303 or F-303. And either of those works surprisingly well with 1.7 rockers.

[SkurdalenFox]

What do you think would suit my needs better, this one-
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

Or,

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

3.08 gears for now, probably going to move up to 3.55 if I'm still not happy post H/C/I swap.
25inch tires, still working on the trans, but as of this moment it's an AOD with the stock converter, that shifts at ~5300.

I don't have a ton of info on port job on the heads other than they were ported to be consistent with the Cobra intake, and flow best from 3000 to 5000.

The P.O. of these heads ran an Cobra intake 1.6 rockers and B cam, and with a 10:1 compression ratio made 332rwhp.

As to the camshaft selection. What I'd like to improve is the gutless 2500ish RPM to shift area when getting up to freeway speed, and the 3rd gear, 2500ish and up passing performance.

[Italian LX]

Originally Posted by coupe

Use head-studs. It will put less stress on the threads in the block and holds clamp better than a bolt in general.

The only drawbacks of using studs is they cost a little more and sometimes it makes removing the heads while the motor is in the car a bit more difficult.

However, another plus side is that when you do remove the heads, you won't have a big coolant mess when you remove the lower fasteners.

[coupe]

What I'd like to improve is the gutless 2500ish RPM to shift area when getting up to freeway speed, and the 3rd gear, 2500ish and up passing performance.

I tell you what...Ths is just as much a problem with your AOD and converter than the cam. I'd run a 3.73 gear at least (prefer a 4.10 with that steep .66 overdrive). Then stick in a 2500-2800 stall converter and the Bauman shift-kit or something like that. The car will wake up like you won't believe.

I like the first cam (444221) better because it's not using 1.7 RR's to get the lift. The lift rates at the valve will be smoother like this and I think it will make more torque in the midrange. It sounds like a great pick.

Get a stall, shiftkit, and gears first. You may be totally satisfied afterthat.

[QWKSNKE]

Originally Posted by coupe

Get a stall, shiftkit, and gears first. You may be totally satisfied afterthat.

I agree. We did 3.73's and a Baumann shift kit in 89 Hoss's fox GT he had in spring of last year and made a very good improvement in his car. He was very pleased with it.

I also agree with doing 3.73's at a bare minimum in a AOD equipped car

[1Quik85GT]

If you tear the engine, down, you can use the bearings again. I have done that in my stang and my race car before. If the bearings look really good, use 'em. but as soon as you pull the pistons out the rings will lose there tension. I would definetly use new pistons, and when you do that, make sure you have the block honed. 3.73 gears with an auto would be a good idea. Studs are good, but most street goin racers dont use them because we are changing heads while the engine is in the car. If you use a good gasket, make sure the head and block are surfaced flat, and torque the heads to the right sequence, it will be just as good as a stud. Our Super stocker doesnt use studs, and it has tons of compression. No studs, no o-rings either.

[SkurdalenFox]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate it.

The converter, shift kit and gears suggestion is very helpful. Initially, I had planned to replace the gears and add a shift kit this spring. However, the highly deteriorated front cover gasket is hemorrhaging about a quart of coolant every 12 hours or 40 miles, and that takes precedence. So, while I’ve got the damn thing apart, I thought I’d do the H/C/I swap. But, while I’ve got the engine out, I suppose I should also change the converter- http://www.streetstangs.net/showthread.php?t=8324

[SkurdalenFox]

My AOD’s flexplate teeth are a bit chewed up from a low quality starter motor that was spinning it for a little while. The starter died quickly and was replaced with a Ford unit that has worked well. So anyhow, I plan to replace the flexplate with a used AOD/50oz flexplate. This won’t require a balance will it?

[coupe]

Nope.