H/C/I Advice - Page 2

SkurdalenFox · 04-19-2007, 03:13 PM

I yanked out the engine, and have got it torn down to the short block.

How do the cylinder walls looks?

The cross hatching is still pronounced, the ridge at the top of the cylinder is very, very small, - added acurate measurement - measured at .002" difference between the ridge and the bore directly beneath the ridge. That measurement is consistent among the eight cylinders . As can be seen, at the top of each cylinder there is a slight yellowness to the walls, and there is some carbon buildup. I’m very tempted to not even bother to mess with the bottom end or pistons & cylinders at all… foolish idea?

Is this bend stock?

.314 of deflection. I plan on putting in a new timing set, but is that amount bad for 100k or pretty typical?

I’m going to put in a new cam; is there any reason not to reuse my roller lifters? Should I keep them in their previous bores or does not it really matter?

coupe · 04-19-2007, 03:29 PM

Everything looks normal...except the oil really needed to be changed a little more frequently (especially the last time). The cross-hatch is not in focus, but is probably okay with 100k miles. Those motors can still look excellent with over 200k miles. Even 300k miles is not unheard of around here.

Put in a new timing set...get one of the nice rollmasters or something with "true roller" chain. You can reuse the lifters if they're not caked with carbon or anything. And the lifter bores all start out the same, as do the lifter diameters, so they should all be fine to use wherever. It wouldn't hurt to keep them in the same bores though.

If you plan on something serious with a pretty rowdy cam, spend the extra $120 and get a set of new lifters. Nice to have in there with new cam and pushrods.

QWKSNKE · 04-19-2007, 03:46 PM

Looks normal to me. What year motor is it? What are your future plans? That can play a part on what you should do now

SkurdalenFox · 04-19-2007, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe

Everything looks normal...except the oil really needed to be changed a little more frequently (especially the last time).

Funny you should say that. I'm usually religious about 3k intervals, but I pushed it to ~5k because I kept thinking - tomorrow's the day I'm going to pull the motor...

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe

You can reuse the lifters if they're not caked with carbon or anything.

They look pretty good. Would it be ill advised to drop them in my ultra-sonic cleaner with some Simple Green?

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

Looks normal to me. What year motor is it? What are your future plans? That can play a part on what you should do now

'93. I just want to do the H/C/I swap as mentioned earlier. I'm starting law school in the fall, so provided it lasts for three years, I'll be fine with that.

That it's a 93 reminds me of another question. Should I clean the carbon off the top of the pistons? If so, what is the recommended method and material?

QWKSNKE · 04-19-2007, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkurdalenFox

That it's a 93 reminds me of another question. Should I clean the carbon off the top of the pistons? If so, what is the recommended method and material?

Best thing that I have used (per Edgar's advice) is letting them soak in oil (fresh) overnight. You can just pour in the cylinders if you are not going to remove the pistons.

SkurdalenFox · 04-20-2007, 06:54 PM

post oil soak and a nylon brushing,

How does that look?

There is still a little and intermittent band of carbon goo above the furtherest travel of the top piston ring. About a third of it dissolved in the oil soak. I apprehensive about using a brush or anything on the cylinder wall. What can I use to remove that?

QWKSNKE · 04-20-2007, 09:01 PM

Looks good to me.

You could try using a mild scotch brite pad (red in color)

SkurdalenFox · 04-22-2007, 09:20 AM

Anyone have any tips for removing the front seal from the front cover that won't wreck the front cover? The book I have says to lightly tap around the edge with a chisel and hammer. That's not working, and I keep spying the sledge out of the corner of my eye...

QWKSNKE · 04-22-2007, 09:23 AM

Hammer and chisel or flat head screw driver should work. Are you hitting in from the backside of the cover?

SkurdalenFox · 04-22-2007, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

Hammer and chisel or flat head screw driver should work. Are you hitting in from the backside of the cover?

LOL! Yeah, I'm hitting it in the right direction!

04-19-2007, 03:13 PM	#11
SkurdalenFox Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 463	Many questions I yanked out the engine, and have got it torn down to the short block. How do the cylinder walls looks? The cross hatching is still pronounced, the ridge at the top of the cylinder is very, very small, - added acurate measurement - measured at .002" difference between the ridge and the bore directly beneath the ridge. That measurement is consistent among the eight cylinders . As can be seen, at the top of each cylinder there is a slight yellowness to the walls, and there is some carbon buildup. I’m very tempted to not even bother to mess with the bottom end or pistons & cylinders at all… foolish idea? Is this bend stock? .314 of deflection. I plan on putting in a new timing set, but is that amount bad for 100k or pretty typical? I’m going to put in a new cam; is there any reason not to reuse my roller lifters? Should I keep them in their previous bores or does not it really matter? __________________ Jim Last edited by SkurdalenFox; 04-19-2007 at 03:43 PM. Reason: split infinitive.

04-19-2007, 03:29 PM	#12
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	Everything looks normal...except the oil really needed to be changed a little more frequently (especially the last time). The cross-hatch is not in focus, but is probably okay with 100k miles. Those motors can still look excellent with over 200k miles. Even 300k miles is not unheard of around here. Put in a new timing set...get one of the nice rollmasters or something with "true roller" chain. You can reuse the lifters if they're not caked with carbon or anything. And the lifter bores all start out the same, as do the lifter diameters, so they should all be fine to use wherever. It wouldn't hurt to keep them in the same bores though. If you plan on something serious with a pretty rowdy cam, spend the extra $120 and get a set of new lifters. Nice to have in there with new cam and pushrods. __________________ " If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. " - Albert Einstein

04-20-2007, 06:54 PM	#16
SkurdalenFox Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 463	post oil soak and a nylon brushing, How does that look? There is still a little and intermittent band of carbon goo above the furtherest travel of the top piston ring. About a third of it dissolved in the oil soak. I apprehensive about using a brush or anything on the cylinder wall. What can I use to remove that? __________________ Jim

04-22-2007, 09:20 AM	#18
SkurdalenFox Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 463	Anyone have any tips for removing the front seal from the front cover that won't wreck the front cover? The book I have says to lightly tap around the edge with a chisel and hammer. That's not working, and I keep spying the sledge out of the corner of my eye... __________________ Jim

04-19-2007, 03:46 PM	#13
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	Looks normal to me. What year motor is it? What are your future plans? That can play a part on what you should do now

04-20-2007, 09:01 PM	#17
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	Looks good to me. You could try using a mild scotch brite pad (red in color)

04-22-2007, 09:23 AM	#19
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	Hammer and chisel or flat head screw driver should work. Are you hitting in from the backside of the cover?