H/C/I Advice - Page 3

QWKSNKE · 04-22-2007, 09:27 AM

Just making sure Jim

TheJeanyus · 04-22-2007, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by QWKSNKE

Are you hitting in from the backside...

Italian LX · 04-22-2007, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkurdalenFox

Anyone have any tips for removing the front seal from the front cover that won't wreck the front cover? The book I have says to lightly tap around the edge with a chisel and hammer. That's not working, and I keep spying the sledge out of the corner of my eye...

Get a socket that is just slightly smaller than the opening in the cover. Supoort the cover as evenly as possible around the seal area (but not the seal itself) and whack away. It will probably take a bit to get it loose, but once it moves, it should come out pretty easily.

SkurdalenFox · 04-22-2007, 02:34 PM

Thanks guys. I got it out, but I wasn't so comfortable with how hard I had to hit.

Anyhow, tomorrow I'm going to pickup some taps to clean threads in the block . 7/16"-14 is the thread size for the heads, ya? 5/16"-18 for the front cover and intake stuff?

SkurdalenFox · 04-22-2007, 03:23 PM

I have yet another question. I wonder if it is worth it to get an adjustable timing set so that I can set up the cam in the proper position. Someone I know, and whom I trust recommends the adjustable set, and I've been searching around a bit for others’ opinions, which largely seem to be in favor of adjustability. Example,
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=11

Specifics of the engine combo can be seen in post #1 of this thread,
http://www.streetstangs.net/showpost...64&postcount=1

and I plan on going with this cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

plus a new torque converter/shift kit et cetera.

Basically, what sort of power output differential will be likely between a properly degreed cam and one that suffers from the nominal rate of error?

SkurdalenFox · 04-26-2007, 06:38 PM

Well, I decided to go with the fancy Cloyes Hex-A-Just adjustable timing set.

It uses an eccentric that rotates the sprocket on the camshaft. It requires an extra long dowel pin; a fact I didn't realize until AFTER I had put the too short pin in the cam.

Left for advance, right for retard.

I lined up the marks, like one would do with an ordinary timing set, and this is what I got at .050, intake open

Cam card says intake open @ .050 should be at 1 degree BTDC.

adjust, adjust, adjust...

Everything is dead on to the specs on the card. I know the wheels looks off the last picture. I re-centered it, and all is good... I'm very happy with the results, but if I have to find TDC one more time...

QWKSNKE · 04-26-2007, 06:59 PM

EDIT n/m...

coupe · 04-27-2007, 08:08 AM

Now, you did have a dial indicator on the lifter making sure that it was at .050 lift at the 1º BTC sepcified on the card, right?

Glad to see someone actually "degreeing in" a cam. It does make a difference.

SkurdalenFox · 04-27-2007, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe

Glad to see someone actually "degreeing in" a cam. It does make a difference.

That's what they say. I wish I could get some real numbers on that though. [Rhetorical] This particular set was off by six degrees. Is that typical? I suppose I could have fixed that to within two degrees of correct with a standard multi-key way timing set. What is two or three degrees worth? Did I just pay $50 for 3 horsepower at 5900RPM? [/Rhetorical]

If nothing else, I like learning stuff. So it was worth the money and time.

coupe · 04-27-2007, 09:43 AM

Well, that many degrees seems way off to me when they certainly must expect 90% of people to install it "dot-to-dot." That's why I wondered if your dial-indicator was giving you a true .050"

Please go over it one more time.

Sorry. Also compare intake to exhaust, to see if the LSA and centerlines are as stated.

04-22-2007, 02:34 PM	#24
SkurdalenFox Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 463	Thanks guys. I got it out, but I wasn't so comfortable with how hard I had to hit. Anyhow, tomorrow I'm going to pickup some taps to clean threads in the block . 7/16"-14 is the thread size for the heads, ya? 5/16"-18 for the front cover and intake stuff? __________________ Jim

04-22-2007, 03:23 PM	#25
SkurdalenFox Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 463	I have yet another question. I wonder if it is worth it to get an adjustable timing set so that I can set up the cam in the proper position. Someone I know, and whom I trust recommends the adjustable set, and I've been searching around a bit for others’ opinions, which largely seem to be in favor of adjustability. Example, http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=11 Specifics of the engine combo can be seen in post #1 of this thread, http://www.streetstangs.net/showpost...64&postcount=1 and I plan on going with this cam http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft plus a new torque converter/shift kit et cetera. Basically, what sort of power output differential will be likely between a properly degreed cam and one that suffers from the nominal rate of error? __________________ Jim

04-26-2007, 06:38 PM	#26
SkurdalenFox Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 463	Well, I decided to go with the fancy Cloyes Hex-A-Just adjustable timing set. It uses an eccentric that rotates the sprocket on the camshaft. It requires an extra long dowel pin; a fact I didn't realize until AFTER I had put the too short pin in the cam. Left for advance, right for retard. I lined up the marks, like one would do with an ordinary timing set, and this is what I got at .050, intake open Cam card says intake open @ .050 should be at 1 degree BTDC. adjust, adjust, adjust... Everything is dead on to the specs on the card. I know the wheels looks off the last picture. I re-centered it, and all is good... I'm very happy with the results, but if I have to find TDC one more time... __________________ Jim Last edited by SkurdalenFox; 04-26-2007 at 06:41 PM.

04-27-2007, 08:08 AM	#28
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	Now, you did have a dial indicator on the lifter making sure that it was at .050 lift at the 1º BTC sepcified on the card, right? Glad to see someone actually "degreeing in" a cam. It does make a difference. __________________ " If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. " - Albert Einstein

04-27-2007, 09:43 AM	#30
coupe Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 6,313	Well, that many degrees seems way off to me when they certainly must expect 90% of people to install it "dot-to-dot." That's why I wondered if your dial-indicator was giving you a true .050" Please go over it one more time. Sorry. Also compare intake to exhaust, to see if the LSA and centerlines are as stated. __________________ " If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough. " - Albert Einstein

04-22-2007, 09:27 AM	#21
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	Just making sure Jim

04-26-2007, 06:59 PM	#27
QWKSNKE 3v's are slow Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Here and There Posts: 17,152	EDIT n/m...