03-14-2007, 12:22 PM | #1 |
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Egr?
Pulled an EGR code (34) from the lincoln. anything special about swaping one? also this was a stored code and not an active one, is this normal?
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03-14-2007, 02:11 PM | #2 |
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I wouldn't worry about replacing it. If it's clogged up it may stumble, ping, etc...but only if it's really bad. A good cleaning usually fixes it, unless the sensor and electronic part is malfunctioning. Is there a check engine light?
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03-14-2007, 02:12 PM | #3 |
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nope, car kind of runs funny but that could be a lot of things
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03-14-2007, 06:10 PM | #4 |
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how should I clean it?
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03-14-2007, 07:38 PM | #5 |
3v's are slow
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carb cleaner or whatever works
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03-14-2007, 08:08 PM | #6 |
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where is it exactly?
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03-15-2007, 04:51 AM | #7 |
3v's are slow
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Should be between the intake and t/b on your car. It will hang off of the EGR spacer
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2009 Porsche Carrera S 2008 ///AMG C63.. Eurocharge Tune. RIP 2019 AMG GLC43..wife's 03 F250 SD.. Edge Evo, AFE Stage 1 CAI 08 GT. JBA axle back, FRPP springs, FRPP swaybars.. daughter's 01 Cobra vert... wife's I need a new toy |
03-15-2007, 12:52 PM | #8 |
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The white plastic thing on the back is the EVP - EGR valve position sensor. Pull the EGR valve off first, clean it with carb cleaner, and see if it that clears the code. If not, it may be that the EGR valve is shot or the EVP is toast. I can post the testing procedure later... gotta get to class...
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03-15-2007, 01:21 PM | #9 |
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man that might be the most exact post ever
much thanks
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03-15-2007, 07:24 PM | #10 |
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DN115 CONTINUOUS MEMORY DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 34/334: CHECK EGR VACUUM WITH ENGINE RUNNING
Continuous Memory DTC 34/334 indicates that the EGR valve was open while the engine was stabilized and at idle sometime during vehicle operation. Possible causes: -- EGR valve not seating. -- EVR solenoid allowing excessive vacuum to EGR valve. -- Damaged EVP sensor. l Key off. l Disconnect vacuum hose at EGR valve and connect hose to a vacuum gauge. l Run engine to operating temperature and stabilized idle. l With engine at idle, tap the EVR solenoid and wiggle the EVR connector while noting vacuum reading. l Does the EGR vacuum remain below 1.0 in-Hg (3.4 kPa) with no sudden increase? NOTE: EVR leakage below 1.0 in-Hg (3.4 kPa) is normal. Yes GO to «DN116». No INSPECT EVR solenoid connector for shorts. SERVICE as necessary. If OK, SERVICE or REPLACE EVR solenoid. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory (REFER to Quick Test Appendix, «Section 5A»). RERUN «Quick Test». DN116 CHECK EVR SIGNAL FOR INTERMITTENT SHORT l Vacuum gauge connected. l Key on, engine running. l Look for an increase in EGR valve vacuum while performing the following: -- With the engine at idle, wiggle the EVR solenoid harness between the EVR solenoid and dash panel and between dash panel and PCM. l Does the EGR vacuum increase? Yes ISOLATE and SERVICE short in EVR circuit. REMOVE vacuum gauge. RECONNECT all components. CLEAR Continuous Memory (REFER to Quick Test Appendix, «Section 5A»). RERUN «Quick Test». No RECONNECT vacuum hose to EGR valve. GO to «DN117». DN117 CHECK EVP SIGNAL AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) WITH ENGINE IDLING l Key off. l Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. l Install breakout box and connect PCM to breakout box. l Key on, engine running. l Measure voltage between Test Pin 27 and Test Pin 46 [THE PIN NUMBERS MAY BE WRONG, I DON'T KNOW WHAT YEAR CAR YOU HAVE - PROBABLY THE SAME FOR ALL YEARS] at the breakout box while performing the following: -- With engine at idle, tap and wiggle the EVP sensor and connector. l Does the voltage increase above .67 volt? Yes REMOVE EGR assembly and inspect for contamination, carbon deposits, binding and other damage. SERVICE as necessary. If EGR valve is OK, REPLACE EVP sensor. CLEAR Continuous Memory (REFER to Quick Test Appendix, «Section 5A»). RERUN «Quick Test». -------------------------------------------- Most of the time it's just a dirty EGR valve, but test everything first. When my Mustang was throwing a CM34, it was actually the EVP. Both the EGR and EVP are expensive... I am hopeful this will help you find out which one you need so you don't buy both. There is also a proper procedure for testing the EGR valve, but it's pretty stupid, and to do it properly you need a vacuum pump. If the EVP checks out, and after a through cleaning of the EGR valve the PCM still stores new codes, you'll need a new EGR valve.
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Jim Last edited by SkurdalenFox; 03-15-2007 at 07:47 PM. |
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