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Old 01-30-2008, 05:46 PM   #21
Wickd GT
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my block is at the machine shop getting honed. the cylinders looked great just no cross hatching. as far as the building of my engine the clearances were checked twice. the oil pump just went bad. most likely the main reason is b/c on the pick up there was a small hole in the mesh. i think a piece of trash got in the oil pump. the oil pressure at idle was not always low. i have had this engine built for two years and it just started having low oil pressure last time to the track, usually at idle it is around 25 to 30 but last time to the track it dropped to 14 -16. the car has been run very hard lots of racing etc.. the engine is a 306 with forged lunati pistons bpm forged h beam rods stock crank. has world product heads ported and polished w 2.02 1.60 valves, 1.7 rockers. the cam is pretty radical not sure of duration but the lift is 586 with 112 degree lobe separation. trick flow upper and lower with a vortech s trim at 14 psi, car made 550 with a c4 and went 6.7 at 101 and 10.8 at 127. car should run better now with new suspension in rear. i always use a hv pump b/c of the 7qt pan with an arp shaft.


Make sure that the thrust bearing has the right clearance, when you set it up, get a flat piece of glass, and a 1200 grid sand paper flat on top of the glass, and only sand down at the front of the thrust bearing, meaning to the front of the engine, between .005-.006" is what you want for end play on the crankshaft . Did you find pieces of bearings? look at your old thrust bearing.

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Old 01-31-2008, 05:34 PM   #22
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well after what is's and maybes the culpret has identified himself. the two back mians were out of alighnment causing these two mains to lose oil pressure(would explain low pressure at idle). looks like it will be another week for my block to be at machine shop, has to get alighned honed monday. this will slow my build another week since i am in auburn. but on the flip side we got our 393 back which will go in our 86. this engine is expected to make somewere around 500 on motor then we will put the shot on it. we had a 347 in it for two years making 663rwhp until the broke decided to give(stock block). the car went a consistent 6.3 at 109 and 10.1 at 132. we hope the new engine and jug will put it in the 5's. cross our fingers
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Old 01-31-2008, 05:50 PM   #23
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Was the block originally aligned honed (crank bores)?

I would always recommend this on any motor, alos when the clearances were checked was it only with plastic-gage, or did your machine shop check them with a bore gage (block/cap/bearings) vs. the crank with calipers or a mic?



Concerning running a HV in a stock pan, I do this and always have in my '85, this is along with an additional 4.5 quarts with the oil cooler, accumsump and all of the -10 lines, however this motore sees 4000-6200 for 30-60 minutes at a time, so far so good never had problems, but this is not your normal application.
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:52 PM   #24
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well after what is's and maybes the culpret has identified himself. the two back mians were out of alighnment causing these two mains to lose oil pressure(would explain low pressure at idle)
All BS aside,my next thought/question was if maybe one of the main bearings got installed backwards,IOW,the solid one to the block,and the one with the oil port on the main cap.I've seen it happen!
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:21 PM   #25
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Don't no if your running the Ford Oil Cooler/Filter assembly, but if you are you need to take it apart and do a very good cleaning. You had metal pieces in the pan, and it's almost a givin they went through the pump, and then into the filter assembly. Not cleaning, or better yet simply replaceing the assembly, will void any re-build efforts and waste a lot of money. Check it out.!
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:46 PM   #26
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Don't no if your running the Ford Oil Cooler/Filter assembly, but if you are you need to take it apart and do a very good cleaning. You had metal pieces in the pan, and it's almost a givin they went through the pump, and then into the filter assembly. Not cleaning, or better yet simply replaceing the assembly, will void any re-build efforts and waste a lot of money. Check it out.!
I dont know how much success people have had with cleaning the oil coolers but this is one of the few times that Ford actually says to replace something rather than just "service" it.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:47 PM   #27
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i cant remember if the block was alighned honed or not. my machine guy did check the cleanrces and they were good is the reason he did not alighn hone it the first time. i dont not run an oil cooler
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:12 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by EHardy1971 View Post
All BS aside,my next thought/question was if maybe one of the main bearings got installed backwards,IOW,the solid one to the block,and the one with the oil port on the main cap.I've seen it happen!


Why let some one else build your motor? You want something done right, you do it the way you want and only blame you if something is not right. The only thing the machine shop does to my stuff is either the block or the heads, the rest I assemble.

Edgar
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:07 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Wickd GT View Post
Why let some one else build your motor? You want something done right, you do it the way you want and only blame you if something is not right. The only thing the machine shop does to my stuff is either the block or the heads, the rest I assemble.

Edgar
Same here,not to mention it's MUCH cheaper!
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:18 AM   #30
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i am the same way build all our engines
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